Las Cuatro Milpas (The Four Cornfields), located in the heart of Barrio Logan, it is the epitome of authentic Mexican cuisine without having to cross the border. It was first opened for business in 1933 by Petra and Natividad Estudillo and it is still a family run operation today. Las Cuatro Milpas is very inconspicuous, hidden and out of the way, except that from time to time you will see a line that stretches from the ordering counter, outside the door that tells you this is the spot. But don’t be discouraged, the line does move quite quickly, and the wait time is generally minimal, not to mention completely justified.
There isn’t much room for substitutions when ordering your meal, as this mom and pop eatery has a simplistic menu with fresh ingredients and all made to order. Your meat choices are carnitas (slowly cooked shredded pork) and marinated chicken which provide the staple filling for each of the dishes offered, tamales, tacos, burritos, and rolled taquitos. Spanish rice and frijoles de la olla (beans not refried) are the only side dish options. These are not your everyday bland rice and beans that seem to always lack flavor and texture offered at other locations. Here the rice is moist, fluffy and full of flavor paired perfectly with the beans that have a consistency of a rich and thick stew seasoned just right. Another element that heightens the authenticity of the restaurant is the handmade flour and corn tortillas prepared daily.
Come hungry as the portion size is very generous here. It’s no wonder why after 76 years of being in business and having a limited menu the restaurant continues to thrive. The colorful aroma of traditional Mexican spices fills the air and wafts out the door completely taking a hold of the passerby’s senses pulling, inviting and welcoming them in for a hearty well deserved meal.
Friendly cooks prepare the food as it is ordered, in an assembly line fashion. There is the option to eat it there or take it “to go”. Cilantro, onions, limes and homemade salsa are provided to add even more flavor and kick to your order. Beware, however, of their homemade salsa – it is very good, but definitely off of the spice meter chart, so use it with caution. An entire meal, which includes a canned or bottled soft drink, runs about $5.50, which is most definitely a lot of value for your dollar. Keep in mind that this is a cash only establishment, so be prepared when you arrive. Once you have been handed your food, there is plenty of room for you to find a seat and enjoy your meal leisurely.
This humble and quaint establishment has pale blue walls that are decorated with old family photos of the restaurant owners, and the restaurant’s history giving it an impression of being in a home in Mexico. Something to take note and observe is how diverse every group sitting and enjoying their homemade meal is. The restaurant not only is frequented by the locals but also by professionals, students and even tourist wanting to come taste one of San Diego’s talked about tasteful treasures. Considering the negative publicity the restaurants surrounding neighborhood has received in the past, the location is calm and locals are friendly.
Next time you are looking for an authentic Mexican meal this is definitely a spot worth hitting up to get your fix. Get ready for your taste buds to celebrate and your tummy to be full and happy. Las Cuatro Milpas is located at 1875 Logan Ave. off the 5 freeway. Hours of operation are Mon through Sat 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sun closed