Restaurant Review
Sushi restaurants depict the neighborhood
Emy Takada
Issue date: 10/17/06 Section: Entertainment
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The family-owned Sapporo was opened in 1997 by Japanese immigrants Katsu and Yuri Ueno. Nowadays run by Yuri Ueno and her son Joe Ueno, it is the only Japanese restaurant in O.B., after standing out for years among others that didn't survive, according to the long time waitress Tutu.
"I've been working here forever," said Tutu, "and our customers are in the majority locals."
Local sailor Alex Machado is a big fan of Sapporo. He has been a regular customer for eight years, and makes sure to stop by at least once a week.
"This is the best sushi in town," he said. "And I have eaten all over. And Joe is so much fun, he loves to entertain his customers."
Joe Ueno takes care of the customers at the full bar, but Machado said Katsu Ueno is the one responsible for the good heritage.
"Katsu was extremely perfectionist," Machado said. "He seemed very tough in the kitchen, but I guess that was the reason for the high quality of the food."
Katsu Ueno left the restaurant but the sushi, the flagship dish at Sapporo, still stands out for its quality. Even though the presentation may not be very attractive, it is carefully made.
The taste of the rice in the sushi is exceptional--one of the main secrets for good sushi. It is not too sweet, sour nor sticky. The amount in the roll or under the nigiri (sushi made with toppings laid onto clumps of rice) is reduced, giving room for a generous amount of fillings or cuts of fish. The size of the sushi is just right, not too small, not too big--another important secret for good sushi.
For appetizer, the edamame (cooked soy beans) is a great choice at Sapporo even though it is served really cold. But it is perfectly cooked and tastes just right with cold sake and Japanese beer in summertime, or hot sake and Japanese plum wine on winter days.
The most popular rolls, according to waitress Tutu, are: O.B., Spicy Tuna, Sakura, Philadelphia, and Crazy Roll.
O.B. roll are especially tasty. They are filled with spicy tuna, cream cheese, avocado and masago (fish eggs). For Spider Roll lovers, Sapporo is the place to have it. The filling made with soft shell crab, lettuce, cucumber and yamagobo (a Japanese root) is just mouthwatering.
The restaurant is casual and not very pricey. An order of edamame, O.B. and Spider Rolls (with 8 pieces each), 2 eel nigiris (with pieces unbelievably thick), and refillable ice teas is about $25.
Station Sushi has a different appeal but is equally addictive, especially for North County residents. It is also family-owned and was opened seven years ago in front of the Solana Beach train station by Tony Choi and his mother. A couple of years later, Choi called his friend Kevin Saito to help him out at the restaurant and took off to Las Vegas. Saito started dating Choi's sister and bought his friend's part of the restaurant.
Nowadays, Saito runs Station Sushi in his own particular way. He likes the music loud, surf videos on the TV and people having a good time while eating. Sushi man Antonio Falcão says customers love Saito's spontaneous and unpredictable attitude.
While telling stories, Falcão prepares an entrée that looks very particular--a Tuna Shogun salad. It is a generous bowl of raw tuna in cubes, marinated in balsamic vinegar and topped with avocado, green onions and a touch of maguro. The taste is amazing; the combination between the raw tuna and the balsamic vinegar is a match. It is definitely the best appetizer at Station Sushi.
Another popular employee is Ralph, the Brazilian bar tender who introduced the "sakerinha." He brought the drink from São Paulo, Brazil, where the liquor "cachaça" in the traditional cocktail "cairipinha" was replaced by sake to become sakerinha. At Station Sushi, Ralph serves the traditional lime sakerinha, and three other types: kiwi, strawberry, and kiwi with strawberry. They are prepared with sake, soju (a Korean sake) and sugar.
All the sakerinhas are a must try according to Tony Pena, a Del Mar resident. Pena approaches the sushi bar and before having a seat, shouts, "Where is the sakerinha man?"
Pena has been a regular customer for two years. He eats at Station Sushi about three times a month and loves Station Sushi's happy hours when the Sunset Sushi Combo is served. The Sunset Combo comes with a California Roll and one piece of tuna, salmon, yellowtail, shrimp and white fish sushi, for $10.50.
The portions of sushi are huge and the rice pleases Americans' taste for a sweeter flavor. Fishes are brought in fresh every day, and cut in generous pieces. Monkey Stick Roll is a house creation and one of the most popular. It is a tempura-style sushi filled with spicy tuna (this one is for spicy lovers), crab and albacore. It is served graciously, making it impossible to leave hungry.
Station Sushi is the perfect place to hang out after a day at the beach. To the delight of the surfing crowd, pro surfers like Machado, Gerlach and the Hobgoods brothers always stop by, according to Falcão, especially during surf competition season in North County San Diego.
Sapporo Japanese Restaurant
5049 Newport Ave., San Diego, CA 92107
Phone: (619) 222-6686
Hours: Monday, from 5:00 p.m. to 9:30; Tuesday through Thursday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and from 5:00 p.m. to 9:30; Friday and Saturday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and from 5:00 p.m. to 10:00; Sunday, from 1:00 p.m. to 8:30.
Station Sushi
125 North Hwy 101, Solana Beach, CA 92075
Phone: (858) 481-9800
Hours: Monday through Friday, from 11:45 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., and from 5:15 p.m. to 10:00; Saturday and Sunday, from 5:15 p.m. to 10:00.
Happy hours: Sunday through Thursday, from 5:00 p.m. to 7:00.
2008 Woodie Awards




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